THANK YOU!

Plants That Will Grow Well in our Zone

What will grow well in your garden? The Garden Team has carefully researched the plants and veggies that grow well in our zone. They include:

• Asparagus
• Jersey Giant
• UC 157
• Basil
• Sweet
• Spicy Globe
• Beans, Snap Bush
• Blue Lake 274
• Top Crop
• Tendercrop
• Contender
• Tendergreen
• Derby
• Beans, Yellow Bush
• Goldcrop
• Improved Golden Wax
• Beans, Pinto
• Improved Pinto
• Beans, Snap Pole
• Blue Lake
• Kentucky Wonder
• Beans, Lima Bush
• Henderson Baby Bush
• Jackson Wonder
• Beets
• Pacemaker III
• Broccoli
• Spring Only
+ Premium Crop
+ Emperor
• Spring or Fall
+ Green Comet
+ Galaxy
+ Packman
• Brussels Sprouts
• Prince Marvel
• Royal Marvel
• Cabbage
• Early Jersey Wakefield
• Ace (wrinkled leaves)
• Cabbage, Chinese
• Jade Pagoda
• Michihli
• China Pride
• China Flash (Napa type)
• Cantaloupe
• Hybrid
+ Magnum 45
+ Ambrosia
+ Mission
+ Explorer
+ Caravelle
• Non-Hybrid
+ Uvalde
+ Perlita
• Carrot
• Royal Chantenay
• Burpee’s Toudo
• Park’s Nandor
• Danver’s 126
• Red Cored Chantenay
• Cauliflower
• Snow Crown
• Chard, Swiss
• Rhubarb (red color)
• Lucullus
• Fordhook
• Collards
• Blue Max
• Georgia
• Corn, Sweet
• Yellow
+ Golden Queen
+ Guadalupe Gold
• Bicolor
+ Sweet G-90
+ Honey & Pearls
• White
+ Silver Queen
+ Frontier
• Cucumber, Pickling
o Carolina
• Cucumber, Slicing
• Sweet Slice
• Burpless
• Dasher II
• Slicemaster
• Eggplant
• Florida Market
• Garlic
• Texas White
• Kale
• Dwarf Blue Curled
• Blue Knight
• Kohlrabi
• Grand Duke
• Leeks
• American Flag
• Lettuce, Butterhead
• Buttercrunch
• Lettuce, Leaf
• Salad Bowl
• Black Seeded Simpson
• Red Sails (red color)
• Lettuce, Romaine
• Romaine
• Mustard
• Florida Broadleaf
• Southern Giant Curled
• Tendergreen
• Okra
• Lee
• Emerald
• Clemson Spineless
• Onion, Bulbing
• Yellow
+ Texas Supersweet
(Grano 1015Y)
+ Yellow Granex
• Red
+ Red Granex
+ Burgundy
• White
+ Crystal Wax
+ White Granex
• Onion, Bunching (Scallions)
• Beltsville Bunching
• Parsley
• Moss curled
• Plain (Italian)
• Peas, English
• Little Marvel
• Wando
• Peas, Edible-Podded
• Spring Only
+ Sugar Snap (bush)
• Spring or Fall
+ Sugar Ann (bush)
+ Sugar Pop (bush)
+ Super SugarMel (vine)
• Peas, Southern
• Blackeye #5
• Mississippi Silver
• Purple Hull
• Zipper Cream Crowder
• Colossus Crowder
• Pepper, Hot
• Hungarian Yellow Wax
• Long Red or Slim Cayenne
• Jalapeno
• TAM Mild Jalapeno
• Pepper, Sweet Bell
• Big Bertha (green)
• Jupiter (red)
• SummerSweet 860 (yellow)
• Pepper, Sweet Salad
• Gypsy
• Sweet Pickle
• Cubanelle
• Potato, Irish
• Red
+ Norland (early season)
+ Red LaSoda (midseason)
• White
+ Kennebec (late season)
• Potato, Sweet
• Jewell
• Centennial
• Vardaman
• Pumpkin
• Connecticut Field
• Spirit
• Small Sugar
• Autumn Gold
• Jack Be Little (ornamental)
• Radish
• Red
+ Inca
+ Champion
+ Cherry Belle
• White
+ White Icicle
+ Snow Belle
• Rutabaga
• American Purple Top
• Spinach
• Melody
• Coho
• Fall Green
• Squash, Summer
• Multipik
• Dixie
• Sun Drops
• Burpee’s Butterstick
• Squash, Summer Pan-Type
• Yellow
+ Sunburst
• Green
+ Peter Pan
• Squash, Winter
• Early Butternut
• Sweet Mama
• Table Ace
• Table King Bush Acorn
• Cream of the Crop
• Squash, Zucchini
• Green
+ Senator
+ President
• Yellow
+ Goldrush
• Tomatoes
• Spring Bush
+ Celebrity
+ Carnival
+ Surefire
+ President
• Tomatoes (continued)
+ Merced
+ Heatwave
• Spring Vine
+ Champion
+ Quick Pick
+ Simba
+ First Lady
+ Superfantastic
+ Park’s Whopper Improved
• Fall Bush
+ Surefire
+ Heatwave
• Tomatoes, Small-Fruited (Vine)
• Porter
• Cherry Grande
• Sweet 100
• Turnip
• Spring or Fall
+ Tokyo Cross
+ Royal Globe II
+ White Lady
• Turnip cont’d
• Fall only
+ Just Right
• Watermelon
• Regular
+ Crimson Sweet
+ Sugar Baby
+ Royal Sweet
+ Orange
• Triploid or Seedless
+ Jack of Hearts
+ Supersweet 5032
+ Tiffany

Happy Gardening!

Garden Planting Schedule

The Garden Team has researched the planting schedules for our area. When planning your garden, consider the following schedule:

SPRING

February 1 – April 1
• Rutabaga

February 5 – May 1
• Radish

February 10 – February 25
• Leeks (seed)

February 10 – March 5
• Onion (transplants, current year)
• Parsley

February 10 – March 10
• Swiss Chard
• Greens
• Kale
• Turnip

February 10 – March 15
• Lettuce, Leaf
• Lettuce, Romaine
• Lettuce, Butterhead
• Spinach

February 10 – April 1
• Collards

February 15 – March 1
• Asparagus (crowns)
• Broccoli (transplants)
• Cabbage (transplants)
• Chinese cabbage
• Cauliflower (transplants)
• Kohlrabi (transplants)
• Potato, Irish (seed pieces)

February 15 – April 1
• Mustard

March 20 – April 20
• Beans, Snap Pole
• Beans, Lima Bush
• Beans, Lima Pole

March 20 – May 1
• Beans, Snap Bush
• Beans, Yellow Bush
• Beans, Pinto
• Corn, Sweet
• Cucumber, Pickling
• Cucumber, Slicing

March 25 – April 15
• Tomatoes (transplants)

March 25 – May 1
• Squash, Summer
• Squash, Summer Pan-Type
• Squash, Winter
• Squash, Zucchini
• Watermelon

April 1 – April 20
• Pumpkin

April 1 – May 1
• Pepper, Hot
• Pepper, Sweet Bell
• Pepper, Sweet Salad

April 1 – May 20
• Peas, Southern

April 5 – May 1
• Cantaloupe
• Eggplant

April 5 – June 1
• Okra

April 15 – May 15
• Potato, Sweet-slips
FALL
June 15 – July 1
• Eggplant (seed)
• Cantaloupe
• Watermelon

June 15 – July 15
• Pumpkin, large

July 1 – July 25
• Eggplant (transplants)
• Pepper, Hot
• Pepper, Sweet Bell
• Pepper, Sweet Salad
• Tomato

July 1 – August 1
• Peas, Southern

July 1 – August 10
• Squash, winter

July 15 – August 10
• Potato, Irish (seed pieces)

August 1 – August 15
• Beans, Snap Pole
• Broccoli (seed)
• Brussels Sprouts (seed)
• Cabbage (seeds)
• Cauliflower (seeds)
• Corn, Sweet
• Cucumber, Pickling
• Cucumber, Slicing

August 1 – August 25
• Kohlrabi (seed)
• Squash, Summer
• Squash, Summer Pan-Type
• Squash, Zucchini


August 1 – September 1
• Beans, Snap Bush
• Beans, Yellow Bush
• Beans, Pinto
• Collards
• Swiss Chard

August 1 – September 10
• Mustard

August 1 – October 1
• Parsley

August 1 – October 15
• Rutabaga
• Spinach

August 10 – September 1
• Cabbage, Chinese

August 15 – September 1
• Lettuce, Head

August 15 – September 5
• Carrot

August 15 – September 10
• Lettuce, Butterhead

August 15 – September 15
• Lettuce, Leaf
• Lettuce, Romaine

August 20 – September 15
• Broccoli (transplants)
• Brussels Sprouts (transplants)
• Cabbage (transplants)
• Cauliflower (transplants)

August 25 – October 1
• Greens
• Kale

August 25 – October 15
• Turnip

September 1 – September 15
• Beets

September 1 – October 1
• Peas, English
• Peas, Edible-Podded

September 10 – October 1
• Leeks

September 1 – November 1
• Radishes

Bugs in the Garden

What bug was that???

Not all bugs are bad. In fact, quite a few are considered “beneficial insects” for the garden. They can eat other “bad” bugs, pollinate your flowers, plants, and trees and much more. The following is a short list of the good or beneficial bugs you can feel comfortable with in your garden and the “bad” bugs to watch out for.

GOOD BUGS:

Ladybug (or ladybird): feed on aphids, chinch bugs, whiteflies, and mites, as well as many other soft-bodied insects and their eggs. There are more than a hundred ladybug or “lady beetle” species. These insects are normally purchased as adults and released into the garden. Each adult may consume as many as 5,000 aphids during their adult life.

Praying Mantis: is a general predator of most pest insects, mites, eggs, or any insect in reach. It is the only known insect that can turn its head and look over its shoulder. Mantis lie in wait for their food and when close enough, snap it up with a lightning movement of their strong forelegs. feed mainly on small and large insects. These ferocious-looking praying mantises actually make great pets. Some will even eat raw meat and insects from your fingers. With plenty to eat they usually will not stray far. If handled properly they don’t bite.

Green LaceWing (or Aphid Lion): Adults are poor fliers, active at night and feed on pollen, nectar and honeydew (the exudate of aphids and other sucking insects). The larvae, called “aphid lions”, are extremely carnivorous and predaceous on many soft-bodied insects and mites, including insect eggs, thrips, mealybugs, immature whiteflies and small caterpillars.

Beneficial Nematodes: Though they are harmless to humans, animals, plants, and healthy earthworms, beneficial nematodes aggressively pursue insects. The beneficial nematodes can be used to control a broad range of soil inhabiting insects and above ground insects in their soil inhabiting stage of life. More than 200 species of pest insects from 100 insect families are susceptible to these nematodes. After a single nematode finds and enters an insect through its skin or natural openings, the nematode release a toxic bacteria that kills its host, usually within a day or two. Beneficial Nematodes are very easy to use. Mix with water and spray or sprinkle on the soil along garden plants or lawn.

Trichogramma wasps: Tiny parasites that attack the eggs of over 200 species of moths and caterpilars. They are extremely small - 4 or 5 will fit on the head of a pin. The wasp larvae kill pests before they damage plants by consuming their eggs.

True bugs: These are very aggressive predators. They stab their prey piercing the insect to inject digestive enzymes before sucking out the contents. True bugs include assassin bugs, damsel bugs, and the minute pirate bug. They prey on spider mites, aphids, thrips, leafhoppers, and caterpillars.

BAD BUGS (and their natural enemies):

Ants: A natural predator of these is the beneficial nematodes.

Common Aphids: A natural predator for these is the ladybug.

Cucumber Beetle: A natural predator is the beneficial nematode.

Cutworm: Predators for these are the nematodes and pirate bugs.

Leafhopper: Ladybugs are the natural predator for these bugs.

Grasshoppers:

Mealy Bugs: Natural predators include the ladybugs and green lacewings.

Squash Bugs: Beneficial nematodes help get rid of these pests.

Colorado Potato Beetle: Ladybugs are natural predators of these.

Garden Plots Still Available!

Garden Plots Still Available!

Join other gardeners, experienced and non-experienced in the Old Town Community Garden. Located in Lewisville behind the CCA offices at 200 Mill Street, 6’ x 10’ plot sizes are available for a $10 rental fee.

All gardeners receive a packet that provides helpful tips on gardening including plant selection, planing schedules, and good and bad bugs.

This is an awesome opportunity to build community, make new friends, and learn from each other as we all share our love of the outdoors and gardening! Join us for the fun, education, and fellowship experiences!

Our next meeting is Tuesday, March 27 at 6:30pm at the Christian Community Action offices located at 200 Mill Street, Lewisville.

The Garden will be blessed by Reverend Paul Lucido on Saturday, March 31 at 9:00am; light refreshments will be served.

To sign-up for a garden spot, contact Jessica Trent, Garden Coordinator email: trentjn@verizon.net or phone: 972/315.8265

Chemicals and Organic Gardening

Here are a few do’s and don’ts about “chemicals in the garden” whether you choose to be organic or not:

Compost and Mulch:
• Both store bought or homegrown are fine as long as nothing has been chemically treated or sprayed with chemicals (bug killer, etc.)

Fertilizers:
• Natural or “organic” ones can range from animal manures, green manures, fish emulsion, compost tea, seaweed/kelp solutions, and earthworm castings. There are a lot of fertilizers on the market that list themselves as “organic” now so it is easy to pick up a good one from a garden center.

If you want to use a commercial fertilizer, ALWAYS use a slow release blend in the proper amounts. Knowing what your soil test is (acidic to alkaline) along with the label on the package will help you determine the appropriate amount.

DON’T: The important thing about fertilizing divided gardens (like the community garden) is that the “non-organic” group doesn’t overfertilize! The excess nitrogen washes away easily into the water and soil systems and contaminates nearby area gardens.

Pesticides:

• Natural deterrents include pyrethrum, diatomaceous earth, garlic sprays, pepper sprays, insecticidal soap, fine horticultural oils, and BT for catapillars.

Use beneficial bugs such as ladybugs, praying mantis, beneficial nematodes and predatory wasps. The problem with using beneficial insects in a mixed garden is the sprays used by the non-organic gardeners are using will wipe out your good bugs also.

DON’T: use non-organic broad spectrum pesticides if possible, but if you do follow the label closely. These chemicals can transmigrate to the other garden plots.

Weed Control:

• The best methods are pulling, mulching, and diluted vinegar solutions. Roundup can be used per label instructions, as it becomes inert when contacting soil and will not transmigrate.

DON’T: ever use any commercial herbicide containing 2–4-D or MSMA!

Disease Control:
• There are some organic solutions such as diluted milk spray for powdery mildew and corn gluten or baking soda for fungal control.

If you are going to use a commercial product, use as labeled.

DON’T: use any systemic chemicals.

Garden Packets Available!

The Garden Packets are now available for all Old Town Community Gardeners. Jessica and the Committee have put together a comprehensive set of materials including: Chemicals and Organic Gardening, Donating Fruit & Veggies to the CCA Pantry, Plants That Grow Well in our Zone, Planting Schedule and Guide, Garden Plot Master Plan, Backyard Composting, a nifty "I Love Lewisville" clip, and Restroom Access. Shown below is a sample bag, although they are available in a rainbow of colors.

They are available at the CCA office. If you wish to have a Garden Plot but have not yet signed the forms and paid your garden fee, you will want to do so soon. Only a few plots are left!

WE HAVE WATER!

Eileen lays a section of irrigation pipe.


Shannon's son, Grayson, is a Supervisor-In-Training!


Gary prepares the irrigation pipe for the sprinkler head.


Amanda installs a sprinkler head, as Dad Jeff, and Grayson look on.


Carlene takes a moment to survey how much work the volunteers are completing so quickly.


WE HAVE WATER!!!

According to the Master Plan

Young and "not as young," Longhorns and Aggies, experienced and inexperienced, volunteers came alongside one another making new friendships, having fun, and bringing the Community Garden to life according to the Master Plan. What a beautiful morning to spend a few hours outdoors with excited anticipation of our new Garden!

Volunteers prepare the Garden walkways.

Shannon's son, Ty, proves no job is too small, nor any volunteer too small to make a big contribution!


Shannon spreads the walkway mulch.


Carlene creates another needed pathway!

Master Plan

Garden Plots are being assigned!


The Master Plan of the Community Garden comes to life as plots have been staked out, walkways established, and the irrigation pipes laid! Al (shown here) and Gary, have been working on average 25 hours a week, along with other volunteers to make our garden dream a reality!